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This article has been published on Mototurismo n.127 February 2005 It’s a 28 pages reportage on a trip organized by Master Consulting srl, the editor in Chief Mr. Tiziano Cantatore and Claudio Falanga a photo/journalist toured PENNSYLVANIA on board 2 Harley Davidson bikes, here is the report of their journey. MOTOTURISMO is a monthly magazine with a target on age 25-45 with high spending propensity and community-oriented. Circulation of 45,000, and a readership 3 times as much , diffusion in Italy 45% North, 35% Center, 25% South. MOTOTURISMO crew crossed the Atlantic to tour Pennsylvania astride 2 beautiful Harley Davidson. A very interesting trip far from the stereotypes of the most showed America. In this part of the Country, where the history of the USA has its origins, not by chance the best part of the culture of this beautiful Country, is found; the least known in Europe, but for sure the best. The aircraft is preparing for landing, after a sharp turn, we see under the belly of the aircraft the lights of the streets of Philadelphia, and like a mantra in our heads, we keep hearing the words and the music of Springsteen sad and slow song: Streets of Philadelphia . Which city would meet us? We were expecting a highly-powered city, on the fast track of business and money, where confusion and chaos would be the rule of the streets. What we found was just the opposite. A beautiful city, with a city center where you could actually walk, nice homes and friendly people, rich in art, culture, restaurants … Philly, as the Americans call this city, is the ideal spot to start a journey in Pennsylvania. “STREETS OF PHILADELPHIA” Astride the bikes, we start driving back to Philly, the Harley dealer is not too far away from the city, but driving back on the highway gives us a sense of our trip: how many movies watched with Harley Davidson traveling “on the road” of this great Country! We reach Philadelphia easily and we start touring the city. Once we negotiate the layout of the city, we start going around enjoying the avenues and streets, lined with trees, nice buildings and many museums, the murals depicting the city life, the welcoming squares, the small antique shops in South Philly, the market stands at Little Italy, the Independence National Park for a glimpse of the Liberty Bell, which tolled the first time when the Declaration of Independence was signed. Old City is full of history and of art galleries and antique shops. We keep driving and suddenly we stop on a grand square where very famous stairs reach the Museum Of Art. The stairs are the once Rocky climbed during his famous movie while during his training. Philadelphia is enclosed between two rivers : the Delaware and the Schuylkill, although the weather is not on our side we take a few pictures of the skyline from the rivers. While we take a look at the city map, people stop by and ask us if we need help, we decline but this shows how friendly Philly inhabitants are. Dinner is either in a trendy restaurant on Washington Square where the food is excellent, or on a Mexican joint called “el Vez” where you can see a lighted bike behind the bar. After dinner Warmdaddys’ is the place to go for its music rather than its food. Regretfully we leave Philly, we shall be
back before we head home, and start our journey through Pennsylvania:
our final destination is Lancaster , some 75 miles west of Philly. AMISH TERRITORY Traveling through this rural back roads we felt ourselves to be the aliens, to be out of place in a land where other people live and work slowly and happily, helping each other. We reach Lancaster, Pennsylvania and find it very nice, with its beautiful colonial homes, its streets lined with trees, and its main street full of nice shops. We bikers are a sort different from the rest of the world, we believe that in some part of the world here are lost souls looking for us to be united, and this happened many times in this trip to the USA. The soul that found us in Lancaster is named Jeff, he was astride a red 125 Vespa, stopped and asked whether we needed help, and we certainly did as negotiating the back roads and the on-way streets of Lancaster was not easy. So Jeff was soon named our official guide throughout our stay in Lancaster. Our destination to spend the night was the famous B&B Garden, which we reached easily with Jeff’s help. The Amish Community - the Plain People
- is a religious community originating in Switzerland, where
their religious believes were subject to persecution, so they
emigrated to Pennsylvania, where religious tolerance was well-known
in 1700. The Amish reject the facilities offered to mankind
by the 21st century, and live according to
the Bible refusing to use oil, electricity computers. Women
sew their very simple black clothes using buttons, as the Amish
do not believe in the use of hooks. Their life is based on rural
country life and farming, therefore they get up and go to bed
early. Their means of transportation is a shiny black cart,
pulled by a horse that gets them around. Their very simple way
of life may easily be disturbed by the tourists, who try to
impose their attitude on everyone else. Amish people do not
wish to have their photograph taken. Lancaster County, Pennsylvania is as diverse and fascinating as it is scenic. Come and enjoy our beautiful rolling farmlands dotted with one-room schoolhouses and wind wheels. Take a horse and buggy ride or a steam train ride through our peaceful countryside where our Amish neighbours still live without the use of electricity and motor vehicles. Jeff being on our side and having all too happily discarded his Vespa to ride on our Harley Davidson, we started touring the back roads of Amish County. The countryside is beautiful, with rich corn fields, and nice wooden homes and barns. The relaxing atmosphere, the peaceful scenery, and the variety of many unique attractions and activities have made Lancaster County unforgettable. Once you turn off the main roads, you'll experience the peaceful and relaxing atmosphere that draws so many urban and suburban dwellers back here year after year. Quiet, rolling farmlands dotted with wind wheels and teams of horses or mules. So peaceful and relaxing. In western and southern Lancaster County, the hills are more pronounced, and the views more dramatic. Along the Susquehanna River you'll find many scenic overlooks that offer breathtaking views of the river far below. On Sunday afternoon we stopped our bikes and spent the time looking around at the countryside and the Amish we met while walking, as well as at the general landscape. To respect the Amish culture we have refrained from taking pictures in order not to hurt their feelings. For those of you who have seen the movie Witness, starring Harrison Ford, shot in Lancaster county among the Amish community, passing through the village of Intercourse is experience where you do not know if you leave in a real world or in a movie. A praise go to the Amish food which is prepared with locally-grown produce, jams and jellies, breads and biscuits, roasts and greenery your taste buds will not go unsatisfied. A praise also to the Amish The work ethic and reputation of local craftsmen has brought special recognition for quality and design of products made in Lancaster County. In Lancaster, Amish sell their produce at the local market, very colorful and attractive, this would be a good opportunity to bring something back home. Located in the heart of Amish country,
bridge traffic includes buggies as well as cars. So, slow down,
take a deep breath and listen for the clip-clop of horses' hooves
crossing the bridge surface. It's like being in another country
and another time. One of the popular symbols of Lancaster County is the covered bridge. One of the first covered bridges in America was built here. While covered bridges have not disappeared from the American landscape, you will still find 28 covered bridges intact in Lancaster County. We leave these quiet places, whose peace must not be broken, on our bikes continuing our trip through Pennsylvania, but a certainty is in our hearts these places this quiet will not be forgotten easily. WHERE LEGEND WAS BORN – HARLEY
DAVIDSON :LIVE TO RIDE, RIDE TO LIVE The factory is an attraction for the whole Country. The checks to enter the factory are very strict, there is a metal detector check at the entrance, but we can explain this to the particular historic period that USA are living after 9/11. Harley Davidson is a symbol for the USA, a logo that is carried around on all the many roads of this grand Country. Over the years, thousands of Harley-Davidson
enthusiasts have made the journey to York, Pennsylvania to witness
passion forged in steel. Upon exiting the factory, we come across a group of enthusiast bikers who have come to Harley Davidson factory as a pilgrimage to honour this bike. Leaving the factory behind, we take again US 30, a real thoroughfare crossing Southern Pennsylvania. We decide to postpone our trip to Pittsburgh, and point our bikes towards Gettysburg, a spot of great historical interest. HARLEY-DAVIDSON FACTORY Guests wishing to take the tour or ride a demo motorcycle may travel directly to and park at the plant. Parking will be limited at the facility. Building Harley-Davidson motorcycles takes
more than sophisticated machinery. It takes the skill, precision
and passion of dedicated employees. Harley-Davidson factory
tours offer something few ever get to experience - the chance
to watch extraordinary people channel their pride and expertise
into machines that capture the imagination and stir the soul. THE
BATTLE OF GETTYSBURGH From the immortal Gettysburg Address pronounced by Abraham Lincoln upon inaugurating the Gettysburg National Cemetery, dedicated by President Abraham Lincoln a four months after the Battle From York we reach Gettysburg where everything speaks of the infamous battle between North and South. Welcome to Gettysburg, Pennsylvania, where the turning point of the Civil War occurred from July 1 - 3, 1863. Travel to the Gettysburg National Military Park, with over 1,000 monuments and cannon along over 40 miles of scenic roads, a battlefield shrine to the Union and Confederate soldiers who fought here. Plan to visit the scene of the Gettysburg Address, Picket's Charge, General Robert E. Lee's Headquarters, Little Round Top, and the Devil's Den. You can even meet Abraham Lincoln! In Gettysburg, you can eat authentic Civil War era foods, sleep in a restored historic inn, and discover over 25 museums and resort attractions. We had dinner at “Dobbin Restaurant” a typical Gettysburg joint. Gettysburg made us melancholy, the weather was not helping either: a soft drizzle was reminding us of the upcoming Fall, but looking around us we saw the miracle of the foliage turned into so many shades of reds and browns to make are heads spin. FROM THE APPALACHIANS TO PITTSURG We stop, and like it would happen on any other American movie, a police cruiser stops right behind us, we are scared that they wanted to give us a ticket, so the moment the policemen step up to us we state “ we come from Italy and we got lost “ they told us that they figured we were not from area, despite the 2 Electra Glides with American plates. They are very helpful, show us the way to reach our destination in Pittsburg pretty soon. No matter how often you emerge from the Fort Pitt tunnel, this view of Pittsburgh is always such a complete and utter pleasant surprise. The city seems to say, "Here I am and here I'll stay with or without those steel mills". But Pittsburgh isn't just a product of steel mills whose owners sunbathed in the perspiration of their workers; it has a softer side where opera, dance and theatre play their role. Along with Iron City beer-drinking sport enthusiasts who proudly proclaim their team the greatest, are artists, writers, musicians and actors who perform in the numerous theatres scattered throughout the city. There is the technical and scientific side of Pittsburgh as seen in the research departments of its renowned universities such as Carnegie-Mellon, Duquesne and the University of Pittsburgh, and in its hospitals to where patients from all over the world throng for transplant operations. With the help of Domenic and Asaka, riding our bikes, we reach the top of Mount Washington, form where we enjoy the view of the Pittsburgh skyline. Our guides take us in the heart of South Side, where the cute shops of the Golden Triangle welcome us along with other very nice spots. We have breakfast at Enrico’s, we have been missing our cappuccinos and biscotti in the morning. The area around Penn Avenue is full of Italian shops, restaurants and bars and since we are, already missing our moms, we cannot go without a deep tour of Pittsburgh’s Little Italy and we stopped visiting with many bystanders , who were attracted by our beautiful Electra Glides. But Pittsburgh has very nice museums, Andrew Carnegie was quietly building an institution dedicated to the discovery of contemporary art and artists. Contemporary art has been on display and part of the attraction of Pittsburgh ever since. Today more than 300 works ranging from early pieces like Winslow Homer's The Wreck and James A. McNeil Whistler's Arrangement in Black are on display. a walk on the wild side at The Andy Warhol Museum to see the artist's famous Heinz Ketchup boxes and other great works of pop-art are on display. NORTH PENNSYLVANIA The greatest danger for the motorcyclists on this road, are the deers. Yes, those big animals with antlers, crossing the streets of Pennsylvania. The risk is to meet the animal dead in the middle of the street, and this is the reason of many incident. The road to reach Bradford, seems never come to an end, but the tiredness is recompensed by big emotions, both for the scenery that for the people met. We stopped in Kane. A pause to have a snack and to meet Calogero, the owner of the Pizzeria Pepe’s. An Italo-American who lives here by lifetime, he narrated about his life and of Pennsylvania. His welcome and his natural friendship, will remain one of the best souvenir of our Journey. As promised, we went back to see him, not alone, but with others motorcyclists met. Bradford in a quiet town in the north of Pennsylvania almost to the frontier of the New York State. In Bradford we spent some days in a fantastic resort, the Glendorn : an experience to enjoy! The family, owner of the property from six generations, opened it just in 1995. Fully surrounded by a forest – with lake and streams- and delimited from multicoloured hills, the “Glendon Resort” has several independent apartments, called cabins, that are little wood houses with good taste furnished. The centre of the resort is situated in a big area, a “home” made of red Canadian wood inside with sofas and a big fire-place. Refined, charming, with good taste furnished, the Glendorn is the right venue to arrange high culinary dinners. Glendorn is also known for the sport activities: fishing, canoe, clay-pigeon shooting, outdoor activities. We enjoyed a wonderful moment swept away in this fantastic nature corner, while just in front of the resort our Harleys were waiting to drive us around Bradford and to discover other wonderful places. In the city center we met Linda, who knows each and every one about this area. We revealed her our wish to discover the habits and the lifestyle of people in North Pennsylvania. We wanted to know all about places, people, traditions, and common life. Thanks Linda’s assistance – that was infinite – we managed to see and discover the most interesting aspects of this area. She introduced us to some local motorcyclists and we make with them a tour in the Allegheny National Forest. We drove along breathtaking roads surrounded by incredible nature and visiting places of extreme interest. Daniel and Donna, both motorcyclists, joined us in the tour around Bradford. Everything was exciting: motorbikes, landscapes, enjoyment and good people that seem to know them from a long time and will remain in our heart forever. Our passion for the motorbike joined together in a closer friendship and makes our trip special. With Dave, Kate and Smithy we spoke about everything: motorbikes, travel, life… They guided us with pleasure through this fantastic stage of typical spots. We enjoyed the panorama from Rimrock in the Allegheny Forest, where the eagles fly high and the forest reflects itself in the water lake. We arrived in the Kinzua Bridge State Park where in 1882 an incredible rail bridge was built and then destroyed by a tornado in 2003. We visited the viaduct (300 feet high) where also American tourists go either to visit this ingenious metal work or to see the destroying power of the nature. We stopped the motorbike near a farmhouse where the maple syrup is extracted. The family that manages the farm welcomed us warmly and showed us the working phases of extraction. Of course resisting to a sweet maple syrup was impossible! Bradford and his people never end to amaze for the hospitality. In the evening, Linda took us to listen a concert of country music. Nothing better to close this tour. During our stay, we have lived the reality of this place. First of all the Zippo factory, who is very important for the working life of people. The Zippo Museum is very interesting to visit. Now, the factory produce also knives and clothing accessories. Here, in Bradford survive an “Italian festival” organized by the Association “La Stella Lodge”. We are introduced by a new friend, Joseph to spend the evening, having a chat and a good glass, while the sky, makes as present, a wonderful starlit night. ZIPPO VISITOR CENTER From here, the Zippo Museum begin, holding the history of one of the symbol product of America. Here you can see the first prototype of that genial lighter who has invaded the world, many historical photos and several rooms dedicated. Among, the tribute to the American hero and an hall dedicated to the presence of Zippo in the Cinema, with many images of films like Casablanca, Apocalypse now, Blues Brothers and many others. With big pleasure, in the area dedicated to the aerial/handwriting, we have found the work of a collaborator of Mototurismo, Claudio Mazzi, master of this modern expression form. Inside the Visitor Center, you can find the “Zippo Repair Clinic”, where lighters from over the world are repaired. Very interesting is to see the Zippo who can not be repaired, like that got under a train and completely flat. The incurable Zippo when arrive to the Zippo clinic, are free replaced by a new one. In the store, hundred of models of Zippo are shown, with several t-shirt, hats and books dedicated to Zippo and the Case knife, another famous brand , property of Zippo. The Museum is open 09.00/17.00 from Monday to Saturday. 11.00/16.00 the Sunday from June to Christmas THE ROUTE 6 These are Mototurismo’s suggestions, that are far to be commonplaces, but suggestions of a friend or better of a motorcyclist friend. From Erie Lake, near Canada, across a lots of counties, Bradford included, the Route 6 crosses the North area of Pennsylvania. It goes across forests, rivers, lakes and the Pocono Mountains, where nature has a lots to offer at every time. We travelled in autumn, when the colours hit the heart and the road seems to open its heart to the most intimate soul. The cold that begins to shape binds the man to his motorbike. You seek the warm that arrives from the engine like a sweet hug. The Route 6 of Pennsylvania is generous with the motorcyclist. It’s like “a cherry on the cake” in our tour in this part of North America, a sweet cake that has the flavour of maple syrup. When the route crosses the County of Crawford it reports the images of the American natives, then it plunges into the forests of the Warren County, arrives in the McKean County and remembers you the power of nature, near the bank of Allegheny River where are reflected the colour of autumn. In the Potter County the Route 6 is like the cry of coyote or the roar of a bear, the land of gods and wild nature. In the Bradford County – the one we prefer - the route shows us the Victorian houses, the savoury apples, the panoramic hills with the colours of autumn. It leads us from the Wyoming County through the Appalachian Mountains, then the County of Lackawanna with its coal mines, the Wayne County with its rich wildlife, and the County of Pike. One route, one thousand stories to tell and to keep in mind jealously. FROM POCONO MOUNTAINS TO ALLENTOWN Allentown has disappointed us , looks a little impersonal, people is very busy and the suburbs are not very interesting. But here, precisely at Nazareth, there is the factory of the most famous guitar in the world, the Martin. Another American myth, hold in the Pennsylvania State that we can’t lose. From the 1833, the Martin Guitar symbolize the best who a keen of music can wish. All the guitarists have played with a Martin during their life, both country and pop music. The factory is situated in a modern building and a visitors centre welcome people from all the world, wishing to see how this prestigious instrument are made. An extraordinary visit; led by the kind mister Brenden, we have seen the different stages giving rise to his masterpiece, starting from the selection of wood. We have seen the museum and be honored to hug the number million of the special Martin built in Nazareth. With emotion, we visited the artist Gallery, with the photos showing each of them with their own specific model of guitar. Speaking with the workers we felt the pride to be part in the birth of this America myth. BACK TO PHILADELPHIA We return our Harleys, who have droved us for about 3000 kilometers. Wonderful travel companions, part of this side of America where everlasting myth still live. We felt so bind, that if we could, we have taken them in Italy. Well, thank you America, to have shown us an unexpected and unusual side of this country, so controversial, extraordinary, loved, hated but certainly charming. The State of Pennsylvania, a non well-known corner of the United State Planet , is a place well worth visiting and knowing. We have tried to show you a part of this territory and of people that here, toke roots of America. As I like, we have done it by motorcyclist, gliding with the two wheels up the north, in the Dutch Country long the Route 6, slipping in the center of cities, having a rest in a bar or a motel, speaking with a lot of people. Probably we have omitted many things, it is to you to discover them, inserting the Pennsylvania in one of your next destination. The motorcycles used in this journey have been two Harley Davidson Electra Glide Classic It is a model not imported in Europe, which is very similar to the Electra Glide Standard and Ultra Classic model, sold in our country. The differences are very few and concern only the part of accessories, even if the price could be different for many euros. For our journey, we couldn’t select better transport, and this for several reasons, first the charm to travel with a motorcycle that on this road, appear much more mythical and then the visit to the Harley Davidson Factory, and the fitness of the Electra Glide at this type of journey. Comfortable and handy, these motorcycles have permitted to carry all the luggage, including photographic material, and many souvenirs led up during the journey. It’s no so difficult to fall in love with this motorcycle, the powerful Twin Cam 88 dl 1499cm3 is quick to switch on, the guide is agile and amusing. The gear is easy to drive, the braking is effective but not very quick. You have to get used to, enjoy the view with a good music in the stereo and feel shown in a road movie. The saddle is comfortable, and you can drive many hours without stiffening. One remark for the seams that absorb in case of rain. The back trunk is fantastic, good capacity and watertight. Also the side bags have good capacity but are not very handy. That is the reason why is better to put here all that is not necessary to have within reach. Wonderful the protection of the wide windshield. For average height drivers, it is a good cover from cold and rain. After having gone a long way with these motorcycles, you can’t remain indifferent, the comfort, the control associate to the sights of people met, change the travel in America with Electra Glide, in a pure pleasure. PENNSYLVANIA - MOTORCYCLE
GUIDE INFORMATION, ROAD MAP and SPECIAL THANKS Information
Pennsylvania Flight: www.usaiways.com Documents: www.usembassy.it Specials thanks to:
A special thanks also to: Flavia Magnano for her professional
and friendly prop; |
